Costumes

These days, in the larger cities (especially Mumbai and Delhi ), it is common to see young Indian women wearing jeans and T-shirts. However, the sari, which is the most graceful attire we've seen, is still worn by most Indian women. Within the upper classes, the sari has become even more of a fashion statement, largely thanks to innovative, contemporary designs by leading Indian fashion designers.

Many working women, especially the young, tend to wear the salwar kameez , a loose tunic top over drawstring trousers. This outfit is also popular with travellers and many of the members bought these salwar kameez sets for themselves. The salwar kameez is accompanied by a scarf-like dupatta , which is usually draped across the neck at the front so that the two ends cascade down the back. The dupatta is also used to cover the head in religious places or in front of elders as a mark of respect.


The costumes in Rajasthan are worth observing. Although it is not unusual to see Rajasthani women in saris, the traditional dress consists of a full, often brightly coloured, ankle-length skirt known as a ghaghara or lehanga , which is worn with a short blouse called a choli . Also, an odhni (head scarf) of a bold, vibrant fabric, either plain or patterned and often with a fancy border in silver thread, is worn. Sometimes, these head scarfs are adorned with mirrorwork, beads and shells. If the woman is a widow, the head scarf is not very brightly coloured. The leather shoes worn by men and women are called jootis or mojdis . Men's jootis curl up at the toes. Today, Rajasthani men have adopted the jodhpuri , a buttoned coat which is the official judicial dress of Rajasthan's courts. The turban is worn by men of most classes. It can either be plain or vividly coloured as is tied in various ways according to the class of the wearer. Men also take pride in their moustaches. Rajputs are renowned for their long, bushy moustaches. As with turbans, the way the moustache is worn varies from region to region.

The study of the people of Rajasthan is incomplete without the knowledge of costumes and ornaments. The costumes of the present have the reflections of the costumes of the past. Clothes express one’s personality and distinguish people of different places from each other. The Brilliance Of Hues
Both males and females dress in the customary dresses fully influenced by climate, economy, status and the profession. The traditional dresses being ‘potia’, ‘dhoti’, ‘banda’, ‘angrakha’, ‘bugatari’, ‘pachewara’, ‘khol’, ‘dhabla’, amongst Hindus; and ‘tilak’, ‘burga’, ‘achkan’ amongst Muslims, which are fast changing now with ‘bushirt’, ‘salwar’ and ‘skirts’, saris and pants accordingly. Turban, the head dress of Rajasthani men, is a differential pattern, of each geographical region designed to suit terrain and climatic influence. All over Rajasthan, the ‘bandhni’, the tie-and-dye sari and turban reign supreme.
The common dress of the women constitutes (i) sari or ‘odhani’, (ii) ‘kanchli’ or ‘kunchuki’ or ‘choli’ (iii) ‘ghaghra’ or ‘ghaghri’ or ‘lahanga’. Besides, the women of high status and ranks wear ‘dupatta’ and ‘patka’.

THE DIVERSE ATTIRE

Royal Wardrobe
The rich and opulent dresses of the royalty were made under the meticulous attention of special departments in charge of royal costumes while the ‘Ranghkhana’ and the ‘Chhapakhana’ were departments that took care of dyeing and printing the fabrics respectively. The ‘siwankhana’ ensured its flawless and articulate tailoring. Two special sections, the ‘toshakhanand’ and the ‘kapaddwadra’, took care of the daily wear and formal costumes of the king.

Traditional textiles
Rajasthani daily wear such as saris, ‘odhnis’ and turbans are often made from textiles using either blockprinted or tie-and-dye techniques.

Rajput Costumes

The Rajput kings, owing their close proximity to the Mughal court dressed up in their colourful and formal best. Richly brocaded material from Banaras and Gujarat, embroidered and woven Kashmiri shawls and delicate cottons from Chanderi and Dhaka were procured at great cost.

Turban Styles

Varying styles of turban denote region and caste. These variations are known by different names such as ‘pagari’ and ‘safa’. Infact, there are about 1,000 different styles and types of turbans in Rajasthan, each denoting the class, caste and region of the wearer. Turbans come in all shapes, sizes and colours; and there are specific turbans for specific occasions as well. .

Women's Attire
The standard design is a four-piece dress which includes the ‘ghagra’ (skirt), the ‘odhni’ (head cloth), the ‘kurti’ (a short blouse) and the ‘kanchi’ (a long, loose blouse).


Pila
An ‘odhni’ with a yellow background and a central lotus motif in red called a ‘pila’, is a traditional gift of parent to their daughter on the birth of a son. The vibrant and colourful land of Rajasthan, with hospitable and well-attired men and women add a splash of colour to the otherwise parched landscape.