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These days,
in the larger cities (especially Mumbai and Delhi ), it is common
to see young Indian women wearing jeans and T-shirts. However,
the sari, which is the most graceful attire we've seen, is still
worn by most Indian women. Within the upper classes, the sari
has become even more of a fashion statement, largely thanks to
innovative, contemporary designs by leading Indian fashion designers.
Many working women, especially the young, tend
to wear the salwar kameez , a loose tunic top over drawstring
trousers. This outfit is also popular with travellers and many
of the members bought these salwar kameez sets for themselves.
The salwar kameez is accompanied by a scarf-like dupatta , which
is usually draped across the neck at the front so that the two
ends cascade down the back. The dupatta is also used to cover
the head in religious places or in front of elders as a mark of
respect.
The costumes in Rajasthan are worth observing. Although it is
not unusual to see Rajasthani women in saris, the traditional
dress consists of a full, often brightly coloured, ankle-length
skirt known as a ghaghara or lehanga , which is worn with a short
blouse called a choli . Also, an odhni (head scarf) of a bold,
vibrant fabric, either plain or patterned and often with a fancy
border in silver thread, is worn. Sometimes, these head scarfs
are adorned with mirrorwork, beads and shells. If the woman is
a widow, the head scarf is not very brightly coloured. The leather
shoes worn by men and women are called jootis or mojdis . Men's
jootis curl up at the toes. Today, Rajasthani men have adopted
the jodhpuri , a buttoned coat which is the official judicial
dress of Rajasthan's courts. The turban is worn by men of most
classes. It can either be plain or vividly coloured as is tied
in various ways according to the class of the wearer. Men also
take pride in their moustaches. Rajputs are renowned for their
long, bushy moustaches. As with turbans, the way the moustache
is worn varies from region to region.
The study of the people of Rajasthan is incomplete without the
knowledge of costumes and ornaments. The costumes of the present
have the reflections of the costumes of the past. Clothes express
one’s personality and distinguish people of different places
from each other. The Brilliance Of Hues
Both males and females dress in the customary dresses fully influenced
by climate, economy, status and the profession. The traditional
dresses being ‘potia’, ‘dhoti’, ‘banda’,
‘angrakha’, ‘bugatari’, ‘pachewara’,
‘khol’, ‘dhabla’, amongst Hindus; and
‘tilak’, ‘burga’, ‘achkan’
amongst Muslims, which are fast changing now with ‘bushirt’,
‘salwar’ and ‘skirts’, saris and pants
accordingly. Turban, the head dress of Rajasthani men, is a differential
pattern, of each geographical region designed to suit terrain
and climatic influence. All over Rajasthan, the ‘bandhni’,
the tie-and-dye sari and turban reign supreme.
The common dress of the women constitutes (i) sari or ‘odhani’,
(ii) ‘kanchli’ or ‘kunchuki’ or ‘choli’
(iii) ‘ghaghra’ or ‘ghaghri’ or ‘lahanga’.
Besides, the women of high status and ranks wear ‘dupatta’
and ‘patka’.
THE DIVERSE ATTIRE
Royal Wardrobe
The rich and opulent dresses of the royalty were made under the
meticulous attention of special departments in charge of royal
costumes while the ‘Ranghkhana’ and the ‘Chhapakhana’
were departments that took care of dyeing and printing the fabrics
respectively. The ‘siwankhana’ ensured its flawless
and articulate tailoring. Two special sections, the ‘toshakhanand’
and the ‘kapaddwadra’, took care of the daily wear
and formal costumes of the king.
Traditional textiles
Rajasthani daily wear such as saris, ‘odhnis’ and
turbans are often made from textiles using either blockprinted
or tie-and-dye techniques.
Rajput Costumes
The Rajput kings, owing their close proximity
to the Mughal court dressed up in their colourful and formal best.
Richly brocaded material from Banaras and Gujarat, embroidered
and woven Kashmiri shawls and delicate cottons from Chanderi and
Dhaka were procured at great cost.
Turban Styles
Varying styles of turban denote region and caste.
These variations are known by different names such as ‘pagari’
and ‘safa’. Infact, there are about 1,000 different
styles and types of turbans in Rajasthan, each denoting the class,
caste and region of the wearer. Turbans come in all shapes, sizes
and colours; and there are specific turbans for specific occasions
as well. .
Women's Attire
The standard design is a four-piece dress which includes the ‘ghagra’
(skirt), the ‘odhni’ (head cloth), the ‘kurti’
(a short blouse) and the ‘kanchi’ (a long, loose blouse).
Pila
An ‘odhni’ with a yellow background and a central
lotus motif in red called a ‘pila’, is a traditional
gift of parent to their daughter on the birth of a son. The vibrant
and colourful land of Rajasthan, with hospitable and well-attired
men and women add a splash of colour to the otherwise parched
landscape.
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